Return to Copacabana and the stunning Isla del Sol

The first day of 2015 began with another bus trip, a return journey to Copacabana.  The bus depot was closed, being New Year's Day, so we took a cab up to the cemetery high on the mountain above, and waited in line to buy tickets back to Copacabana.  The bus we wanted was already full, but an hour later there was another, so we waited on the sidewalk with dozens of other passengers, most of them families travelling together in large groups.  Happily we were assigned the first seats on the bus, so had additional leg room, a welcome change for us tall folk!  It also meant that there was no one in front of us to recline their seat into our laps.  The return trip to Copacabana and the somewhat precarious ferry crossing was accomplished in what seemed to be a shorter amount of time, but I'm sure the fine weather, clean bus and a good night's sleep were the reasons behind that. 






Everyone gets off the bus and takes a separate boat across

 

 

 



It takes considerable jostling to get lined up to disembark

Arriving back at Copacabana, we hiked once more up the hill to our hostel, this one Las Olas, just beyond La Cupola. It was a delightful hobbit house with a loft, perched on the cliff overlooking the bay, with floor to ceiling windows.





As we lounged in the sun until evening we reflected on the whirlwind trip we'd had to La Paz. As interesting as it was, I decided that I prefer the laid back water-side atmosphere of Copacabana, with its crowds of backpackers and the welcoming faces at the hostel.  That night we indulged in the luxury of an hour  floating in a hot tub under the dark and starry sky, the steam from the water crystallizing in the chilly air.  When you travel you need to have the mindset that you aren't looking for perfection.  But that was as close to perfection as I ever need.

Our final day in Bolivia was spent on the incredibly beautiful Isla del Sol.  We boarded a boat, equipped with one functional and one non-functional engine and put-putted our way out to the Island in a haze of gasoline fumes. The day had begun with rain and was chilly, but as we travelled the sun emerged and the day warmed quickly.



Landing in harbor at Isla del Sol

 



A more interesting, though slower way to get there



After 2 1/2 hours on board the boat, we docked at Isla del Sol and immediately realized that to explore the island we had to climb 1000 steps.  That was almost enough to make me stay at the dock, but we took it in stages, stopping to rest and take pictures when we became breathless. The steps got us about 1/4 of the way up to the top of the island, so this was just the beginning.



Saying hello to the chief

 



A few of the 1000 steps

We had a full day there, so there was no rush to explore, and the weather was perfect.  Most of the island is terraced for agricultural use and is home to  several  Aymara communities. Visitors pay 5 bolivianos to step onto the island, but these funds are used to maintain the island's communities and the harbor facilities.  It's also a pittance in comparison to even an hour on this beautiful island. 




These little burros carry everything up and down the island

There are no roads or vehicles on the island, and every step you take is up or down.  I was impressed at the speed that the local people climbed the steep slopes, with a load of something on their back as well.  Burros are put to good use here and some nearly disappear beneath their loads.

The entire island is terraced

 



Huge trees manage to grow in this rocky soil



The steps and the entire island are clean and well kept

 

In total, Isla del Sol is home to about 800 families who make their living farming, fishing and welcoming tourists to their island. The island is very clean and well kept.  We found the people to be reserved but ready with conversation and a smile when we approached.  There are many historically significant ruins over the entirety of the island and it was believed by the Incas that the Sun god was born here, hence the name. In our short time there we did not visit  ruins, but did see some from the boat.





We spent a couple of hours climbing, pausing to rest, and bargaining with vendors for their beautiful handwork.  The bargaining process was fierce but good-natured and ended in Murray turning his backpack inside out to prove he had not a single boliviano left to spend.  Despite the altitude and climb it was as leisurely as a Sunday morning stroll and we had plenty of time to soak up the sun and the peaceful atmosphere, high above the busy little harbor. 

We came across a small hostel high on the island where they welcomed us to their patio for a coke and to eat our bag lunch. We idled away nearly an hour eating our lunches and watching the children of the owners play on the patio. Bob Marley playing on the radio, ice cold cokes in hand and a to-die-for view made a terrific reward for all the climbing.


 

Panorama from the deck of the hostel

 


One of our sweet surprises during the breathless climb



 

 

Along the way there were many places where we could rest and take it all in.  Everywhere we looked was a vista, a burst of color or something unusual or interesting to enjoy so we took our time and soaked up the atmosphere and fresh air.  Sometimes "touristing" is such a speedy process that you don't actually get time to enjoy the place you're in and we wanted to make sure that didn't happen.

We climbed almost to the highest point on the island, but settled for a picture instead.  It was getting late in the day and we didn't want to risk being at the top when our boat left.

The high point.  I think.

We then made our descent, slightly less leisurely than our climb, but we had gravity working in our favor on the return trip so it didn't feel strenuous.  Though I confess, I did feel muscles I didn't know I had.  And my knees protested mightily. 



A charming stone archway along the path

 

 

At the harbor we sat in the sun and watched boats coming and going, and had another drink. It was a busy place, with people arriving to stay overnight in the hostels, dogs milling around looking for dropped food, and people gathering to head back to Copacabana by nightfall.



The weather stayed perfect and so when our boat arrived we climbed to the upper deck to sit in the sun as we slowly made our way back to Copacabana.  Our time on Isla del Sol was blissful, and I would certainly go again.  The next visit I'd stay on the island for 2-3 days and explore some of the ruins.  But for now, my memory is saturated with sun, color and unforgettable vistas.